> Zahner's Clothiers: October 2011

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Scott is always looking for the latest and most unique styles in the clothing market.

Brian Linton carries the Jack Lipson shirt line and the
Gala slack line. Both high quality lines that offer
great styling.  Scott is looking to fill in for Fall and
consider Items for the Spring 2012 season.

A letter from Richard S Forte an expert in cashmere formerly of Dawson-Forte Cashmere.

All Cashmere is not equal! You can almost see the softness!

There is a common misconception that all cashmere is
created equal. Not so! There are several characteristics
of this unique fiber that affect both the price and the
quality of the garment made from it. When manufacturers
are pressed to make a less expensive garment they do two
things. They use cheaper cashmere and they use less of 
 it in the garment. Lets look at the cost of the cashmere first.

There are significant differences in the quality and therefore
the price of the fiber that can be used in a cahmere garment.
There are variations in the fineness of the cashmere from various
origins. There are also more subtle variations within origins.
Finer cashmere is more expensive than coarser cashmere. Our
fingers are very sensitive. They can feel the difference between
coarse and fine cashmere. So the consumer can usually spot
sweaters cheapened in this way. Color also plays a role. The
whiter, more expensive fiber is more versatile. It can dyed to
any color. Darker, cheaper cashmeres are often bleached white
and then dyed. This reduces the softness of the fober significantly.
"Let your fingers do the walking" and you feel the difference.
Cashmere fiber is also priced by its length because it makes
a stronger yarn that pills less. This factor cannot be deduced
by examining a garment. It only becomes obvious after wearing.
Garments made from longer fiber will pill less and last longer.
So fiber fineness, color, and length each play a role in the cost
variation between seemingly similar garments.

Cashmere is expensive. A manufacturer pressed to reduce his
 price will often just make the garment lighter. The less cashmere
used, the lower the price of the garment. The most common way
to do this is to loosen the tension on the knitting machine.
This will makethe fabric of the garment looser, more porous, limp.
 A good, tightlyknit fabric will have resilience, density.When you
pull the sides of thegarment apart and let them go the garment
will snap back to shape.The increased density will hold the
fibers in the yarn, reducing pilling and increasing wear.
Cheaper sweaters often contain the combination of
shorter fiber and loose knitting. This is a disatrous recipe 
that will yield a sweater sure to pill.

Our advice; "You get what you pay for". When shopping
for cashmere look for value. In the long run, you will be better off.


Richard S. Forte